There was a time when Cambodia's largest province, Mondulkiri, was in torment: The rain of bombs triggered off an exodus. And hill tribes and villagers fled in waves to the relative safety of Phnom Penh, the capital city of Cambodia.  Today, with the return of peace to the remote province, the provincial government is hoping for a different development: an invasion of investors and tourists. Remote, Mondulkiri extends about 140km in a north-south direction and 150km from the west to the east. The province consists manly of forested highlands and rolling hills. Much of the underlying rocks are of volcanic origins that have weathered on the surface to a rich fertile soil. Mondulkiri, Cambodia's "outback", has a thinly spread-out population. Only 25,000 people live in an area covering 14, 682sq km. The capital town, Sen Monorom, has a population of about 5,000 people. Indeed, the capital is no more than a large village. Unlike most capital towns, Sen Monorom has no high-rise buildings, shopping centers, supermarkets,

or asphalt roads.It consists of a number of huts and houses, a police station, a military command post, a post office, a tourism department, a chaotic but lively market, several generator-operated karaoke bars and a small hospital.  Sen Monorom is remote from Phnom Penh. The road connecting Phnom Penh and Sen Monorom was destroyed after 1970 as a casualty of the war. As such, it takes between 15 and 17 gruesome hours by car to reach Sen Monorom from the 386-km distant capital of the country. The length of  the ride would of course depend on the season and the prevailing conditions of the roads.  However, Royal Air Cambodge flies twice weekly to Mondulkiri, a quiet outpost of civilization in the Cambodian Highlands, only 45 minutes from Phnom Penh. This is the land of mountains and primary rainforest, and home to several hill tribes. Mondulkiri is Cambodia's largest province. Eighty per cent of the population belong to tribal minorities with the majority of them being Phnong. In their own language, Phnong means "people of the mountains". Ten different ethnic groups, all with varying languages and traditions, make up the tribal minorities. The remaining 20 per cent of Mondulkiri's population are a mixture of Khmer, Chinese and Muslim Chams. As ghosts, spirits, and black magic have a firm

place in the social fabric of the tribal societies, don't be surprised to see "witch doctors" performing ancient rites to cure sickness or to ward off evil spirits.

The people live mainly off the land, planting dry rice, fruit trees, and a variety of vegetables. Mondulkiri's high elevation ensures a cool climate and equitable rain. Endowed with the highest peak of the province just above the 1,000 metee mark, rolling hills, and fertile soil, Mondulkiri favours all kinds of agro-industrial activities.

The government is encouraging the planting of strawberries, coffee, rubber trees, and cashew nuts. Besides the potential for agriculture, there are also lost of opportunities for the development of ecotourism and adventure travel right throughout the Mondulkiri province. Four national parks within its area are host to a variety of rare animals, including wild elephants, tigers, leopards, rhinos, deer, banteng, gaur, and several other rare species of the bovine family.

Wildlife watching, jungle, hills, and stunning waterfalls could turn Mondulkiri, in due course, to an exotic adventure destination. Efforts are being made by the provincial government to set up facilities for tourists.

Thursday and Monday are the two most important days in the life of Sen Monorom, the capital town... when the aircraft arrives from Phnom Penh. On those two mornings, all grazing animals are cleared from the runway as the whole population eagerly awaits the arrival of the Royal Air Cambodge flight.

With a letter of introduction to Mondulkiri's Director of Tourism, I arrived in the small frontier town. Happy to see a tourist requiring his help, the government's representative arranged for me a guide and a jeep. My next destination was the remote Phuong village of Bou Sra, 45km to the east of the capital.

During the 45 km trip to Bou Sra, we came across popular local modes of transport, an elephant, and the ubiquitous. oxcarts. Our first stop at one of the villages, we checked out the huts of the tribal people.

Their dwellings are relatively simple constructions and surprisingly cool. The floor consists of compacted soil and the stove is literally an open fireplace. Domestic pigs and dogs were dozing around the cold embers, while one of the three families living in the house was fascinated by my photographic equipment. Neither my guide nor I could communicate in their language. However, we managed to elicit a smile when they were presented with a Polaroid photograph of the family.

The whole family was curiously looking at the camera, probably the first time that someone took a photograph of them. Although most of the villagers are poor in terms of material wealth, they are rich in heart and will not hesitate to extend a warm smile to strangers. Some of them will even offer a cup of rice wine, This portent brew, made from surplus rice, is normally drunk from a hose emanating directly from the fermenting jar.

Continuing our journey, we maneuvered past several domestic pigs happily wallowing in depressions in the dirt road. On the way we met farmers tending to their fields. And just when the rugged roads was getting to my bones, I was rewarded by a spectacular sight- the Bou Sra waterfall. It was a sight to behold. These falls leap over two ancient lava flows and into a deep gorge. Kingfishers and other exotic birds splash extravagant color to the verdant jungle.

The villagers have several working elephants that are used for labor in the fields and in the jungle. We stayed in the hours of the local teacher whose wife was augmenting their income by running a battery operated video and karaoke set up. Most of the villagers are into cottage industry weaving and pottery. We walked through the villages to locate a tribal woman well known for her weaving skills. Not far from the the teacher's hours we met the person who proudly displayed her products on the veranda of her house. With no more than a very simple loom and some yarn her nimble fingers create interesting patterns on an otherwise plain material.

Back in Sen Monorom we explored some breathtaking sights, including two small lakes in the capital. Both of these lakes are used by the Phuong people for their laundry. Overlooking the town is Dah Kromom. Short walks into the surrounding countryside are not only pleasant but delightful, truly a rejuvenating experience. Sen Monorom waterfall, about four kilometers north of the town, is absolutely stunning. Tall elephant grass to both sides of the road was a reminder of how easy it would be for big animals to hide in there. Unfortunately, the rainy season started, making it difficult to cross into Mondulkiri's jungle for wildlife observation. Given the abundance of rare animals in this area, I will be back to photograph the elephant, tiger and the elusive ko-prey (wild-buffalo) Cambodia's national animal. Wildlife watching, jungle, hills, and stunning waterfalls could turn Mondulkiri into to an exotic adventure destination. Although most of the villagers are poor in terms of material wealth, they are rich at heart and will not hesitate to extend a warm smile to strangers.